Worming Chickens

Chickens need to be wormed regularly to prevent a build up of worms in their digestive system that can cause health problems. Keeping chickens in a fixed area as so many of us do, where they are grazing the same piece of ground continually is the worst case scenario as they will be contaminating the ground and picking up worm eggs as they are feeding. Infected hens shed thousands of eggs in their faeces onto the ground and so, the problem gets worse.

Wormers

I use Flubenvet every 6 months to worm my chickens. This is a proven chemical wormer that kill all common worms and their eggs in the chicken and is the only product licensed for use in chickens feed. In between these times, I use Verm-X which has approval for use in Organic systems – now this is a herbal product which works in a different way – you will need to feed this to your hens every month for it to work. The really great thing about Verm-X is that being herbal, it contains many ingredients that are good for your birds so it can improve their overall health.

Good Husbandry

Practising good husbandry techniques is key, in between worming chickens. I will try to rotate my birds grazing area every month so that they get some fresh grass but so the ground also gets to rest (this is one of the major principles in Organic farming) and I will keep the grass mowed short which allows the ultra-violet light from the sun to reach droppings and kill off worm eggs. General cleanliness is of course important so if your chickens scratch around in their own droppings, you should be thinking about cleaning them up, rather than hitting them with a regular dose of chemicals.

Bad Infestations

If you have a bad infestation of worms, you do need to keep in mind that eggs deposited on the ground will re-infect your birds and it is necessary to repeat the treatment with Flubenvet before the eggs hatch and grow into adult worms to lay more eggs. This takes 3 weeks for most common worms carried by chickens so I would re-treat after 3 weeks if I suspect a particularly bad case of worms.

Flubenvet

Flubenvet comes as a powder that needs to be evenly mixed into the chicken’s feed at a given rate. I have included some tips and photographs of how I mix Flubenvet with my girls feed on the Flubenvet page. There is a pre-mixed feed available from Marriages, however having seen the price of this and considering what you don’t use will go off before you need it again, I find it far easier and cheaper to mix my own. It takes me around 5 minutes and I can mix the exact quantity I need and save the rest of the Flubenvet for the next treatment 6 months down the line.

Please remember this should not replace the advice of a qualified veterinarian who can advise you about worming.

If you like this page please share it to help others find it.

Do you have any advice on worming? Please leave me a comment below.

81 Responses to Worming Chickens

  1. Jason Cork says:

    Hi
    We have had our 3 chickens for 18 months now,i first wormed them with flubenvet 1% which I purchased via the internet about 3 months ago after one of them started showing syptoms of a worm infestation(drooped tail,blood in poo and listless)the initial treatment seemed to work,i saw a couple of dead worms in their poo and the chicken which looked ill perked up again.I repeated the treatment after 3 weeks just to make sure.All has been fine although the egg count has dropped off since the treatment… I suspect the initially ill chook has stopped laying,could this be the case,possibly due to internal damage from the worms? also how soon after such worm treatment can I treat them again ie if they show signs of another infestation before a 6 month period? many thanks J

    • Keeping Chickens says:

      You did the right thing re-treating as they can get re-infested quickly.

      If you suspect worms, don’t hang about. 6 months is just a ‘routine’ that most poultry keepers stick to as a precaution but you can worm more often without a problem.

  2. Sue says:

    I am trying to find Flubenvet in the US. Do you know of any places that I can order it?
    Thanks, Sue

  3. Louise says:

    Hi

    Please can you give me some advice, I have just bought two chickens which I noticed had a roundworm in one of their poo’s. I have ordered the Flubenvet but our chicken coop is on paving slabs and has a fenced run around on mud is static. Please can u advise me how to treat the area or is it best to treat chickens twice?

    Thank you

    Louise

    • Keeping Chickens says:

      I would re-treat after 2 weeks to make sure you kill the worms that hatch from eggs that will re-infect the birds. I would also try using a ground sanitising powder on the mud run – this is basically lime and is an old fashioned method of sterilising the ground for worms and their eggs as it dehydrates them.

      Next, I would add a substrate to the run – eg wood chip (not bark..) or sand / gravel. This can be changed periodically when it gets messy and helps to remove any further eggs / worms.

  4. ben says:

    I use diatomic earth to worm my cats (sorry just reading your site, don’t have chickens) and it works really well, I get it of eBay and its around £12 for 2 kilos of human grade.
    Not sure if you can apply this to chickens but worth a try..

  5. Patricia Getley says:

    I have some 11 week old chickens which I will eventually introduce into my laying flock. Should they be wormed and if so is the dose per kg. pellets of Flubenvet the same as for the older hens?

  6. linda says:

    hi 1 have diatom earth in my coop at all times will this help as a wormer for my chickens or will I have to put it in there feed they peck the floor of the coop

  7. Stephen Solar says:

    A very interesting article, thanks. As worm eggs are destroyed by UV in sunlight, would it be harmful to chickens to use a UV light in the run maybe once a week to sterilise the floor? I’m concerned it may affect the chickens’ eyesight, (UV does that) so perhaps we could do it when they’re out free-ranging at weekends. (It’s an enclosed, fixed, walk-in run with wood chip over grass and a weed membrane and it doesn’t get much direct sunlight) UV is a good steriliser inside fish pond filters so maybe it would work in chicken coops.

Leave a Reply