Flubenvet is the only licensed in feed wormer for chickens. It is very effective at killing worms and their eggs. Worms can cause a huge amount of damage to chickens and cause many health problems. As a rule of thumb, if I have a sick bird, the first thing I consider is whether or not she was wormed recently before exploring other avenues.

direct life cycle of wormsWorms lay thousands of eggs in a day that are not always visible in droppings. Eggs then either get picked up by birds scratching around the floor, eating from the ground or in their litter when housed (i.e. picked up directly) or are eaten by earthworms or other ‘hosts’ and passed on to our birds when they themselves get eaten (i.e. indirectly picked up).

These two routes of infection are called the ‘Direct Life-cycle’ and the ‘Indirect Life-cycle’ and can be understood better from the diagrams show that are kindly supplied by Elanco (formerly Janssen Animal Health) where two examples of direct infection and one indirect are shown.

indirect life cycle of wormsWorm eggs are destroyed by heat, drought, a hard frost and UV from direct sunlight. For this last reason, after worming in the Spring, I keep grass short in runs over the hotter summer months where my hens graze so that worm eggs can be destroyed. Over the colder winter months or below 10 degrees Centigrade. Worm eggs cannot mature and therefore cannot become infectious so I try to worm in the Autumn as the temperature starts to drop.

Flubenvet is very effective and after the recommended 7 day treatment, chickens are free of worms and eggs. One thing to remember is that the thousands of eggs deposited via droppings (or coughed up in the case of Gape Worm) are still present in the environment so if the worm infestation is bad, you will need to repeat treatment with Flubenvet after 3 weeks to break the cycle before the newly acquired worms (picked up from the eggs) have a chance to mature and lay eggs themselves.

The withdrawal period stated on the tub is nil for eggs from laying hens. This means that you can continue to eat eggs whilst your chickens are being wormed with Flubenvet. I’m sure you won’t be eating your hens but they must not be slaughtered for human consumption during treatment. Treated birds may be slaughtered only after 7 days from the last treatment.

Where to buy Flubenvet

flubenvet wormer

Click Image to visit MedicAnimal Flubenvet Page

If you have a small flock, there is a Flubenvet 1% 60g pack sufficient to treat around 20 large chickens. This comes with a handy little measuring scoop so that you can get the quantity right. One 6 g scoop treats 2 kg of food for chickens. This is the simplest way to worm and if you mix it as I suggest above with a little oil, you can be sure your chooks are getting the required amount. I have found Petmeds very good for fast delivery, with great customer service when I’ve spoken to them and a very good price. MedicAnimal give free delivery on your first order or when you spend over £19. Their price is sometimes a little cheaper too. The Amazon Marketplace sometimes beats both of these – Amazon Marketplace sellers compete with one another which drives the price down a little.

If you have 50 or more chickens, I would suggest you buy the Flubenvet 2.5% 240g gamekeeper pack which lasts longer. This is harder to find as it is more of a commercial quantity. In order to weigh out the small amount required, you will need some accurate electronic scales that can measure to 0.1 grammes.

How I mix Flubenvet.

mixing flubenvet with layers pellets

Adding the Flubenvet ‘paste’ to the layers pellets before mixing well

Flubenvet comes as a powder that must be mixed with your chickens feed. In order to get this to stick to my layers pellets, I mix it in a small tub with a little Olive or Cod Liver Oil. The ‘Flubenvet paste’ that this makes can then be poured over the right amount of (weighed) pellets in a bucket  and mixed well. It sticks to the pellets and won’t fall to the bottom of the bucket like I suspect some of the powder would without the oil.

Remember to wear disposable gloves for safety (yes I know we forgot in the photos!) and follow the ‘operator warnings’ given by the manufacturers below at the end of this page. Remember to dispose of empty containers in the domestic refuse. Used containers should not be recycled.

How often do I worm my Chickens

As you will see from my routine list of jobs and from what I said above, I use Flubenvet twice per year as a preventative measure but I also worm new birds that we add to our flock and if I become suspicious of worms / ill thrift.

In between times, I will use Verm-X and Apple Cider Vinegar monthly to help keep worm numbers down as well as keeping the grass short in the summer months to allow UV from the sun to kill worm eggs.

An interesting fact: According to Janssen Animal Health, Flubenvet has been used to treat chickens and other poultry in 56 countries for more than 15 years.

You can read more about worms on my worming chickens page

Operator warnings

The following operator warnings are given by the makers of flubenvet.

  • The product is a powder and mixing may generate dust.
  • Prepare the product in a well ventilated place.
  • Do not breath dust.
  • If accidental inhalation of dust occurs, move to an outdoor area with fresh air.
  • To avoid accidental inhalation wear a disposable dust mask (that conforms to European Standard EN149)
  • Accidental ingestion by humans should be avoided.
  • Avoid direct skin contact. Wear impervious gloves when mixing and handling the product.
  • Wash affected parts if skin contact occurs.
  • If accidental eye contact occurs, immediately rinse thoroughly with water.


200 Responses to Flubenvet

  1. Elizabeth Lea says:

    Hi thank you for replying to my email. I managed succesfully to give my girls their flubenvet for the 7 days. I did however forget to ask you how often to treat my girls with flubenvet? I’ve had mixed messages from people about it. Some say 3 times a year, some 4. Others say do twice a year and use verm x in between along with ACV. I use ACV in my girls drinking water everyday. Any advice will be greatfuly received.

    • Keeping Chickens says:

      The problem is, without getting a worm sample done to see if they have worms, you don’t know if they actually need worming. It depends on ‘the infection pressure’ as to how many worms they are getting – many environmental factors as well as the stocking density / size of your run will change this.

      I give flubenvet every 6 months (autumn and end of winter before the breeding season) and other herbal remedies in between. If I suspect a worm problem, I worm at other times but I keep my birds on 1/4 acre of ground so they are not over-stocked. In a small run on mud for example (mud is particularly bad with worms), you might need to worm every couple of months.

  2. Dave Gibson says:

    We can’t get Flubenvet in U.S. Is this because our FDA and big egg producers don’t want us to have it? All we can get for roundworms is Wazine, not indicated for layers (because of FDA and egg producers). We want small operations, but serious ignorance here in Iowa, large egg producing state. thank you. D.G.

    • Keeping Chickens says:

      Hi Dave,

      I am not sure why you can’t get Flubenvet in the US. I will try to find out though as it is a common question I get asked.

  3. Ursula Butchart says:

    Can I mix some flubenvet into a liquid to give one of my hens who is off her food?

    • Keeping Chickens says:

      It isn’t a licensed method if you don’t follow the instructions on the pack. When you give it in the feed, they are getting a small amount over the 7 days. It’s not really possible to work out how much to give in a single oral dose.

      Some people suggest using half a grape or similar with a little Flubenvet stuck to it to get some into a hen if she won’t eat normal food but I can’t suggest this since it is only a veterinarian who can advise on such use and it would breach of the veterinary medicines regulations and NOAH code of practice by supporting, or encouraging you to do this.

      The correct way would be for you to visit a poultry vet and they would be able to diagnose worms, administer a suitable product and advise on the egg withdrawal time “off label” if the problem was caused by worms.

      One other word of caution. When a hen is badly infected, they can become impacted (blocked) with worms. Killing this many worms causes many toxins to be released into the body which in itself can kill the bird.

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